Engine Build documented...

oh i think he has had his mind set on it for a while now...

I wouldnt be too supprised if we hit 800rwhp. My tuner called me a wuss for stoping at just over 600 last time...

however that was before I built the transmission to hold it... and I knew I would have twisted an input shaft off.

all i can say is WOW.i wouldnt even know where to start.thats some dedication.

man and i would be happy with 300RWHP lol

Damn, Nice build.

What made you rebuild the block again?

Oil pump gear shattered.



the new Billet gears

DarkNightV6 wrote:man and i would be happy with 300RWHP lol

Yeah, me too!!

I'll tell ya one thing, that's twice I've seen expensive mod motors take a S@%# cuz of oil pump failure. You better believe when I do my motor it's gunna have the best oilpump money can buy.

A few guy on s197forums oil pump gears took a dump on them within a week of each other. I'm going to have to call Justin to see what gears he is using in my build.

Hey man, maybe you can help me make a decision. My block is being pulled apart because of either a spun bearing or a wrist pin causing a knocking sound. My Manley Rods and Pistons and Block are all in great shape. They only have 2k miles on them. I'm trying to decided if I should go ahead and do a 298 stroker or use the extra cash and have a roll bar put in. I can't do both. And for me to run in the NMRA SST class I will need a legal bar.

Right now the motor is the stock block, with Livernois stage 3 heads, manely rods and pistons, stock cams. I've already made the decision to upgrade the cams and get a JPC intake. I'm on the wall about going to a stroker or getting the cage. Thanks for any help you can give to make my decision easier. I wish I could do engine builds, or I could do both the stroker and bar. I'll do everything else but internals.

How much is everyone dropping (in total) on getting a new engine? Is a long block ever a better deal than a short block?

05RedDevil wrote:How much is everyone dropping (in total) on getting a new engine? Is a long block ever a better deal than a short block?

I hope to drop zero dollars on a new engine anytime soon.

I guess the value between a longblock and a shortblock would be if you want/need heads or not.

The first time I did it it was 7k. That was just a built shortblock, livernois stage 3 heads, remove and install. Now I'm thinking about going with a stroker build with billet rods, custom cams, billet oil pump gears, JPC intake, pan etc. Will be around 8 to 9k. If I take the JPC intake out it would run me 6 to 7k

This is why I wish I could do engine builds.

Uh sorry have not been around...

So my thoughts on this...

On a forced induction engine, I always want more sidewall in the cylinders. On a NA build I go for the largest bore and stroke possible. Secondly the 4.6 is already a square bore/stroke combo. With a FI car you can overcome the slight power difference by 1. tune 2. more boost 3. cams to bring the power in sooner 4. fuel. Billet rods will only be needed unless you are planning to spin it past 8k rpm or 1100 hp. Of course thats with ARP 2000 rod bolts. Looking at comparable combos that are stroked, they are averaging 30-50rwhp per # of boost. Not that great of an investment to me. When the boost controller is a finger click away... I personally do not like meth kits but some use it with great results. I dont like piggyback fuel systems. However they will help you in reducing detonation. I would use a racing fuel or ethenol based fuels. Currently e98 has made insane power. I have two friends with turbo mustangs that runs on e98 and one just put down 1129 rwhp using pump e98 on a pushrod r302.

When it comes down to it the old statement "There is no replacement for displacement" always holds true. However when you are talking less than 50 cubes... you are splitting hairs... let alone the difference between 281 and 298 or 302...

If I were to ever change my combo engine wise, I would do a destroked 5.4.

Personally I would use the cash to get it legal and have more fun with it at the track. That is my next mod to my car, a cage with removable/swingout door bars.

Awesome Post man,

Thanks, That helped a lot.

TT_05_Stang wrote:Uh sorry have not been around...

So my thoughts on this...

On a forced induction engine, I always want more sidewall in the cylinders. On a NA build I go for the largest bore and stroke possible. Secondly the 4.6 is already a square bore/stroke combo. With a FI car you can overcome the slight power difference by 1. tune 2. more boost 3. cams to bring the power in sooner 4. fuel. Billet rods will only be needed unless you are planning to spin it past 8k rpm or 1100 hp. Of course thats with ARP 2000 rod bolts. Looking at comparable combos that are stroked, they are averaging 30-50rwhp per # of boost. Not that great of an investment to me. When the boost controller is a finger click away... I personally do not like meth kits but some use it with great results. I dont like piggyback fuel systems. However they will help you in reducing detonation. I would use a racing fuel or ethenol based fuels. Currently e98 has made insane power. I have two friends with turbo mustangs that runs on e98 and one just put down 1129 rwhp using pump e98 on a pushrod r302.

When it comes down to it the old statement "There is no replacement for displacement" always holds true. However when you are talking less than 50 cubes... you are splitting hairs... let alone the difference between 281 and 298 or 302...

If I were to ever change my combo engine wise, I would do a destroked 5.4.

Personally I would use the cash to get it legal and have more fun with it at the track. That is my next mod to my car, a cage with removable/swingout door bars.

Couldn't have said it any better myself. Good post.

Took his advice.

Cage work starts this week.

For you 4.6l/5.4l mod motor folks, just got this new book from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-4-6-5-...9729085&sr=8-1 . (couldn't paste the cover picture in here for some reason). Fair amount of detail and lots of good information. Not overly detailed by any means, but it's got lots of good info that will assist anyone as they contemplate a new motor.

Nice,

If my motor goes again, I may have to and build it myself. If my wife doesn't kill me first.

Figured I would post some teaser shots

damn dude that is lookin sick

Progress!!!!!

kooldawg6 wrote:Progress!!!!!

+1

Where do you get all your specialty tools?

Next time my engine pops (and with my luck it will) , I'm going to do it myself.

jeostang wrote:Where do you get all your specialty tools?

Next time my engine pops (and with my luck it will) , I'm going to do it myself.

I've had most all of my engine tools from when I worked with my grandfather, in his shop. Its supprising how old tools still work for most all builds. Specialty tools specific for mod motors I purchase from OTC tools.