Engine fitment

Just wandering if anyone knew if a big block would fit in my car. I am looking at a 429 right now and would love to stuff it in my 03. I know it will involve some fabrication and whatnot. Just need to know if it will fit.

429? nonono 427 cobra jet! Yay. Idk about fitment. If they can stick a Nelson racing engine in a first generation RX7 with over 1600 Horspower im sure you can fit a big block in a car that originally had a v8 in it and not a 1.1 Liter Rotary enigne.

The FE motors were nice but i am also looking at the price. The 429 i am looking at is intake to oil pan for 150.

How old is the engine???????

Ive seen several posts about this over on mustangforums.com

Id do a quick search over there in the 4.6L (1996-2004) forums.

Boss281 wrote:How old is the engine???????

It is a 1972.

Jack Roush did it on a '94 using an infinite money supply...

Is the 94' engine bay a little smaller than mine?

Not sure if anything will need to be done to the shock towers to do so, but it will fit! The 4.6 is physically wider than a 460! At Excessive Motorsports, they stuffed a S/C 5.4 into a Termi bay!!!!!
Then there was the 94 BOSS 10.0 L Stang!!!!!
http://bradbarnett.net/mustangs/concept/10boss/

Those are impressive numbers.

"The car made 855 horsepower, 790 lb.-ft., and it ran 0-60 in 1.9 seconds, 0-100 in 5.5 seconds, and the quarter-mile in 10.55 seconds @ 135.05 mph."

Big block power is looking better and better.

As John stated the 4.6 is wider than the 460, however it is taller than the 4.6. Drop mounts and a k-member are needed. Depending on if you go carb or fuel injection and use an aftermarket ECU like Bigstuff, Mega Squirt, or FAST, you can run into a lot of issues with emissions, and or inspection. You will have to apply for a waver, which can be a tedious process that can get rejected easily.

With the availability of people changing, race combos, its fairly easy to find 5.4 or larger mod motors that would drop in, and use all of your wiring, and be pretty much plug and play. With your 2v, you could find a 5.4 shortblock, a set of TFS heads, a sullivan intake, and that would be a little screamer. A shot of nitrous, and you would be at Big Block power you mentioned. It would be much less expensive. Just think you have to change everything. Engine transmission, k-member, mounts, trans mounts, cooling, fans, wiring, fuel, return style tank, hacking the interior since a c6 or powerglide is 5" shorter the shifter must be moved forward, ect, ect, ect....

Mind you all of your sensors, will need to be plugged up to your stock ecu for chassis wiring, and then a seperate ECU system or carb, to run the rest. If its carb, the posibility of getting it through emissions, is almost impossible. Not because of it being any less clean than injectors, its just rules they have in place for emissions testers that have no idea what they are doing.

All in all, its ultimately your choice, and I applaud the idea. Just giving you the issues I have had to go through in the past. Now if you lived in a state who doesnt have emission standards, that would be a fun drop in.

as far as the 400+ ci engine, I would do a 9.5 deck, 351 block, bored .125 over with 6" rods, and stroker crank. Cubes of the Big block, and larger bores to unshroud the valves, plus be able to spin it to 6500 without breaking a sweat. the big block will have to have expensive internals to rev over 5500, but will be a stump puller. Aluminum heads for big blocks are rare, and expensive. Their head design is light ages behind the small block, and is why many drag race class's uses the 400ci small block mainly due to head R&D.

just my .02...

Thanks for you .02. I actually didnt think too much into it and wasnt paying attention to everything I had to change as far as "mounts, trans mounts, cooling, fans, wiring, fuel, return style tank, hacking the interior since a c6 or powerglide is 5" shorter the shifter must be moved forward, ect, ect, ect" I would have never factored that into the cost until it was too late. So would you recommend building my bottom end and getting a turbo? I want about 600hp. It will be a daily driver but I dont commute in DC traffic. I live about 5 minutes from base.

I was looking at the kits. This turbo looks like it is a 76mm.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-MUSTANG-GT-REBUILD-500-HP-T04E-TURBO-KIT-22PIECES_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2c51989c78QQitemZ190347517048QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

This one says it is a 70mm.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Turbo-Power-Pack-T70-650hp-Ford-Mustang-4-6L-5-0L-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem27ae10502fQQitemZ170424029231QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

What would you think about those? I know I wont be able to use all the parts and that I will have to fabricate some parts to make it fit

I try to stay away from chinese, unless its to eat. Mind you those kits will work fine for about two months, and then the welds will crack, due to using cheap stainless steel. Secondly the turbo housings are known to split, and turbo shafts that bend. you can find all of the failures on them on the internet. Originally all chinese turbos went under the name ssautochrome, then xspower, then... and so forth. They would run great for a couple months and explode. Headers would crack from the bumps of eery day driving. If you want an inexpensive turbo, go with a Master Power turbo made in Mexico. They are a tried and true inexpensive turbo. you can get a Turbo for under 500. Borge Warner also is a nice piece for under 500. If you want a turbo kit I would recommend Brian from http://www.bgturbokits.com/storebg/index.php. He sticks by his products and gives you a waranty. I know 6 people personally, and hundreds others on theturboforums.com who have used hit kits and are simply happy with them. His site doesnt have the modular kits, but I know he makes them, its just not on his new site yet. Give him a call and he will gladly talk you through your goals, and put something together for you.

However if I were you I would find someone getting rid of a kenny bell and use that for ease of installation and simplexity.

I sent an email to Brian at B&G turbo thanks alot for the info. With me wanting to go forced induction, what kind of advice can you give me regarding it. I notice you are having problem with your engine that is why I am asking?

Mainly dont try to go to the limits of anything. My engine issues have been due to a lots of different bugs being worked out, bad luck, and bad information. It happens when you put a twin turbo on a 6month old car in 2005 when everything was unknown. Lots of money later, and 3 engne builds I thought I ahd everything worked out. However bad information from the head and cam builder, left me with a bent valve. Simple fix if I had the cash,but I am broke at the moment, knee deep in lawyers fees.

In the end, I suggest anyone to take baby steps, and work your power up. Work with the stock engine, and a power adder. play with 400+ rwhp, until you get bored. Then step up to the next level.

Also when I started messing with mine, in 2005, 6months after buying it, there were no 1000 hp fuel systems for our cars or heads or cams. many things were one offs, or first runs. I found all the issues of eerything I purchased or made. R&D was at my expence, and now I ran out or money for a bit

I do hope to see ur stang up and running. She a buut.

Thanks alot for all the help. I will wait and see what Brian can do for me and in the meantime work on getting a bottom end for my car to hold up to the boost.

A step at a time is Probably a good suggestion...

I looked at maxmods site and they have a 4.6 to 5.0 L stroker that looks good.

7ShelbyGT wrote:A step at a time is Probably a good suggestion...

I looked at maxmods site and they have a 4.6 to 5.0 L stroker that looks good.

A stroker motor does sound good. I have been looking at the setup from DSS racing. The only problem is the compression ratio. I do plan on forced induction so I think a stroker is out of the question for me.

03silvergt wrote:

7ShelbyGT wrote:A step at a time is Probably a good suggestion...

I looked at maxmods site and they have a 4.6 to 5.0 L stroker that looks good.

A stroker motor does sound good. I have been looking at the setup from DSS racing. The only problem is the compression ratio. I do plan on forced induction so I think a stroker is out of the question for me.

Bore the stroker out and get dished pistons, Prob solved:)

chrisverneuil wrote:

03silvergt wrote:

7ShelbyGT wrote:A step at a time is Probably a good suggestion...

I looked at maxmods site and they have a 4.6 to 5.0 L stroker that looks good.

A stroker motor does sound good. I have been looking at the setup from DSS racing. The only problem is the compression ratio. I do plan on forced induction so I think a stroker is out of the question for me.

Bore the stroker out and get dished pistons, Prob solved:)

Yeah but the best I can do is 9.58 c/r with a 44cc head and a -18 dish. That is for the kit at DSS racing. I dont know how that would handle for a daily driver and shooting for 500-600hp.

IDK eiather. Who knows could run amazing as a daily driver.

Look at Maxmod site

I was thinking about the same thing 500+ RWHP... but still a daily driver
Aluminator stroker block, decide on compression ratio, get the pistons that work, do a Comp Cam with the heads reworked - valve springs, plus ..., plus...., $$$

Talk to the guys at JPC they have been honest and helpful in my decision making search.

If I get some good money saved, And still have my car im gonna look at supersixmotorsports engone components for the 4.0. Thinking about there 4.3 stoker, Stage 3 Cams and heads, 10:1 Compression ration with possible shaved heads wich will increase the compression, Plus all the other mods they have. Possible Look into A full custom Intake. Soon as i find a shop that i can go to and do the work myself. If anyone knows of someone with a shop, Fab shop that is let me know. You can trust that I know what im doing.