Dash mounted gauge pods

Good Morning ladies and gentlemen. I just purchased a 3 gauge pod dash mount for my 08 Mustang GT. I asked about having them installed and was quoted $500. With the times I cant afford that. The gauges are the Autometer Cobalt and electric. I am wondering how you get the gauge plug up to the gauges from behind the dash. I am also wondering where to place the whole in the fire wall. I would like to do this myself. I have already tied all the wires together as for power, lights, and grounds. It seems simple once past this point. They have sensors to replace the factory ones. With the new cars when you install the gauges does this mean you eliminate the factory ones as with the old ones. I have the oil, fuel, and boost guage. I am going to install the boost gauge for vacuum until I can get the supercharger. Also has anyone changed the rear brakes yet. I did the fronts with Wilwood 14" are awesome. I have the rears but dont have a clue about taking out the axles. Can anyone help or know some one that can do it reasonably. My guy wants 1200. Thanks as usual for any help with these. Hope everyone had a wonderful holiday and sorry I have not made any shows or meets but work has been crazy murders rising in the city means details.

Well mayby you can make the Anniversery party on the 13th of december, its at the green Turtle in Columbia at 7, check out this thread Annoversery Party Thread
As for the fire wall, its mostly 2 walls, but I know on my 05 there is a spot covered with a foil and black sealant that you can go threw, but mine is an automatic, and that may be the hole that the clutch is in on the stick shift.
And as for the breaks, send a PM to ProdrifterX, he is a mechanic and is usually looking for side work

Thanks alot. I will have to take a look under the dash.

Well if you have a place to do it, Garage at your house. We can whip it out in 4-5 hours. Since your not changing gears, or diff, or bearings in the carrier, its a simple removal and installation.

Will

I have a heated two car garage. I am swithcing over to the wilwood slotted rotors which mean the axles have to be pulled to mount the new mounting hardware. i know nothing about this. The emergency brake cables have to be switched as well. I bought a new differential cover since the stock had to be removed to.

There are a couple members that I have done work on their cars, who can vouch for me.

Pulling the axles is pretty easy job. Plus you will learn how to complete the job the next time you need to pull axles or replace the diff. Let me know what weekend you want to knock it out. I live in Arnold, so just up the way from you.

Will

Sounds like a great deal to me. I am detailed this entired weekend. With the holiday coming up want to wait until the first of the year. Not unless you would want to do it on a weekend before the holiday. Have you installed any of the gauges. I was looking at it today and cant find the map sensor nor the shrader valve to mount the fuel pressure gauge. I could only find the oil sensor to replace. Thanks alot.

Droptop306 wrote:Sounds like a great deal to me. I am detailed this entired weekend. With the holiday coming up want to wait until the first of the year. Not unless you would want to do it on a weekend before the holiday. Have you installed any of the gauges. I was looking at it today and cant find the map sensor nor the shrader valve to mount the fuel pressure gauge. I could only find the oil sensor to replace. Thanks alot.

For boost guage the map sensor should be included with the kit. I have a Twin Turbo so I know all about where it needs to be installed. If your going superchared it will depend on whether its a twin screw or a centri supercharger where it can be installed on the 3v motors. Centri Blower will be anywhere after the throttle body, on the twin screw there will eb a vacuum port that you can T off of. The Fuel pressure guage, will need a fuel rail adapter. I used Metco's adapter and it works great. It fits between the stock regulator and the fuel rail. Then you take the FPS and screw it in there, and run your wires to the cabin.

I have installed my tripple guage pod from SOS. I have not installed a center dash pod, however it will depend on the kit you putrchased to where the wires will route. The SOS one does not require any drilling or cutting of the dash. I believe the autometer has two installation options. One that requires drillnig, and the other that fishes the wires behind the defrost vent. All that can be figured out. I am sure there is a write up somewhere online of someone else doing an install of your exact dash pod.

Pretty much all of my wires I have run from the engine bay, to the wheel well, and through the stock gromet location down by the kick panel. A small slit will allow the wires to pass through, but have zero issues with leaking.

Will

Sounds great. I bought the autometer cobalt. I am planning on going with the whipple supercharger in chrome. I dont have the money for it right now but thought that the gauge could still be hooked up for the vacuum until I gather the money for the charger. Let me know when you are free. My email is droptop306@hotmail.com

I am in the outerbanks from 22nd to jan 2 so anything prior or after that...

Will

Of course and type of donation, would be appreciated . It will help in getting my car back on the road LOL... donation isnt required though

Email me your donation price and a contact number. i would be looking at the first of the year. I have alot of ot from now until christmas. I really appreciate this.

I got your message TT 05 Stang. I really appreciate it. With the shop prices now a days I dont know how anyone can afford to do any of this if they dont have the know how. Is there any special tools that I will need. I have teh basic tools. I am free next friday and Saturday if you wanted to give it a whirl then. Just let me know

Although i've never had Will work on my car he is a pretty good poker player ;)

Sure, next weekend should be fine.

As far as tools.

everything is basic socket's and wrenches. Except I use a large C-clamp to hold the axles in while removing the c-clips.

Get yourself a large tube of BLACK RTV, and 4 quarts of rear end gear oil.

Do you have a jack and jackstands?

Do you have air tools? I can bring my compressor and tools over if needed... does make things go a little quicker.

Will

5spd07gt wrote:Although i've never had Will work on my car he is a pretty good poker player ;)

LOL I think that was a mirrored comment... since we split the pot haha...

haha, i guess thats true. never looked at it that way. Will can also pick you out a nice pinata

i guess i was playin a little careless since it wasnt my money!

haha

I have a air compressor but not the best air tools. What type of gear oil do we use on the new cars. I will pick it up or order it. I have a jack and stands but dont have a large c clamp. I have been trying to buy tools when the extra money was in place for mechanic work. Thanks alot.

Well since you have the stock diff aI would get the 140w motorsport oil from the dealer. Its fairly expensive IIRC at like 20 or 30 a quart. When I changed my dif to a Detroit Tru-Trac I changed over to amzoil 90w

I can bring the c-clamp

One more reason for using the stock gear oil is that it already has the friction additive in it.

ok sounds good. My car came with 3:55 gears from the dealer so I was content with them. I will have the car on jack stands and tires out of the way for us a head of time. This will save time. I will message you my cell number as soon as Fed ex delivers it. i got a new one with a new number and my wife is away with the number right now. I might try to climb under the car this week to and change the shifter out to the pro 5.0 but need to see what time looks like and how much room I have to do it under the car

Shifter is a pretty easy job. 4 bolts and its out. I lowered my driveshaft for a little extra room, but its not needed. You can install it without dropping the front of the driveshaft. Unscrew the shift nob, take the shift boot off. Take the bolt and two gromments of the shifter arm. There are two bolts that attach to the driveshaft tunnel, and finally the stabalizer bolt that the shifter bolts to the transmission case. That one will be the hardest to get to. Its a 10mm bolt thats fairly long, with a brass bushing. remember how they come off, because if you put them backwards, it will be hard to get it in gear for 5th and reverse. I used a 1/4" drive ratchet with a swivel 10mm but you can use a shorty 10mm and a universal. When it backs out about 10 turns it will bind against the transmission tunnel and you will need to use a 10mm wrench for the final turns. It will seem like it wont come out, but if you cock it a little it will pull out. The entire assembly can either be worked through the floor up through the shifter hole, or taken down around the driveshaft. Both ways are fairly tight, and that is why I opted to drop the front of the driveshaft.

The shifter is one nice piece. I love mine. However I would rather NOT have a remote shifter all together. It feels sloppy no matter what shifter you have in it. However its night and day better than the stock unit.