Shaker 500 upgrade to Shaker 1000

Alright here is what I have been able to come up with so far:

Aftermarket Shaker 1000 amps and sub upgrade

I've got the wiring all figured out.

Big picture:

Let's start with power for the trunk-mounted Shaker 1000 amps. Ford did NOT install the power wiring for the Shaker 1000 amps in the car at all. This omission starts at the under-hood passenger side fuse-box. On a Shaker 1000 equipped vehicle, there are two fuses up there that feed the Shaker 1000. The wires that would run back to the trunk harness would be:

VT/LB (+) for subwoofer connector C4158A and C4160A)
PK/YE (+) for subwoofer connector C4157A and C4159A)

Those two wires, as best I can tell, would run straight from the under-hood fuse-box, through the driver side main wire-harness grommet, and back to the trunk.

Also, you need ground...so the trunk harness ground wire, if installed, would be:

BK/OG (-).

I don't know where it grounds to normally, but I'm going to run the ground wire up to the front and tap into the BK/OG (-) wire that feeds the head unit...so I don't get a ground loop and get noise (like alternator whine, popping etc).

My solution for (+) power since none of that is factory installed is to run 4 AWG to the trunk through a firewall grommet (fused at 60 amps, of course) to a trunk power distribution block.

For signal to the Shaker 1000 trunk amps, you need the following hookups to the head-unit wiring harness. All the colors match. It should be 4 wires total, and 3 of them tap into the head unit "J4" connector (Also known as "Audio Unit C290B") outputs (See previous post). We are using pins 5,6,and 8 on the only 8 pin connector coming off the head-unit.

Pin 5 is Rear Sub (+) it is PK/OG
Pin 6 is Rear Sub (-) it is OG/RD
Pin 8 is Rear Sub turn on and clipping feedback circuit - it is GY/BK


The head unit ground is in connector "C290d" also known as "J1" and is in the only 24 pin connector harness. The wire is:

Pin 13 Audio Unit Ground BK/OG

So that is it - only 4 wires off the head-unit harness need to be run to the trunk.

Rear Sub connections to match the above wires you have run:

Pin 1 Subwoofer Turn-ON / Clip from head unit: GY/BK

Pin 2 Subwoofer Ground: BK/OG
Pin 5 on connectors C4158A and C4160A: (+) Power VT/LB
Pin 5 on connectors C4157A and C4159A: (+) Power PK/YE

(Again, the above 3 connections I will make using a (+) 4 AWG cable run straight to battery, and Ground I will run to pin 13 BK/OG on head unit). Both pin 5 (+) power connections can be made to the same 4 AWG power cable that I run to the trunk.

Pin 7 on connectors C4157a, C4158a, C4159a, and C4160a: (+) Audio input from matching head-unit wire: PK/LG

Pin 8 on connectors C4157a, C4158a, C4159a, and C4160a: (-) Audio input from matching head-unit wire: OG/RD

You may be wondering about the "Clip" term if you are not an audio person. Clipping is when the peak and base of the audio sine wave go from rounded to squared off...in layman's terms it is distortion caused by asking the amps to play too loud.

Ford says this about the clipping circuit:

The enable / clip circuits for the 2 front subwoofer amplifiers and the 4 rear subwoofer amplifiers carries out 2 functions; to turn on the subwoofer amplifiers, and to indicate to the audio unit when the subwoofer output distortion signal reaches a damaging level. The audio unit then reduces the audio output signal to the subwoofer amplifiers. The two front AND rear subwoofers share a common ground through circuit 1204 (BK/OG wire).

So based on the above, I now think Shaker 1000 cars have SIX amps (since I can't get any of you shaker 1000 owners to take 1 minute and go look at your car and tell me if there are amps above the driver's side kick-panels )...and I now believe all 4 trunk amps are for the subs - one for each voice coil in the subs (Two 10" subs, each is Dual Voice Coil).

Now all that is left is to find out if the Shaker 500 actually has output pins for the subs...and if there is signal present to even drive them. If not, my Eclipse head unit goes in and the Shaker/Skipper 500 goes bye-bye.

I didn't have any mounting hardware with my Ebay purchased Shaker 1000 setup, so I just went out to the car to find where it all bolts in. One bracket is missing (not installed in car) but it shouldn't be necessary. It is the forward bracket for the amp rack. There are still 3 other mount points, so it should be fine.

I went to Lowes and bought the following:

(7) fender washers 1/4x1 - I drilled the center hole to 5/16. so the bolts would fit through.

(6) M8 1.25x20 bolts (Class 8,

(1) M8 1.25x25 bolt (Class 8,

(1) M8 1.25 Class 8 Nylon insert lock nut.

The last two items I listed are for the aft-most left side facing foot of the subwoofer box. Install the bolt from the UNDERSIDE of the car with some Blue 242 Medium strength Lok-Tite...then the nylon locknut will be installed from the top in the trunk.

If you want the OEM bolts instead, these are the part numbers:

W505433 for the bolts (You will need 8 of them)
W705047 for the nut
Washers are integrated on the OEM bolts.
The "missing bracket" is 19B187 (I don't know if this can be ordered or not)...if you can get it, add one more bolt (9 total) to the order.

The two amp rack holes are hiding under the piece of dynamat (black sound deadener asphalt sheet).

Get under the car, look above the right muffler...you'll see the two holes with the black dynamat obstructing them. I used a tiny punch awl to make a hole in the dynamat from the underside so I could see where the mount holes were from the top, then I used an X-acto knife to trim away the dynamat around the holes. Those two holes are for the amp rack.

Amp rack bolts get 11 lb-ft of torque, subwoofer mount bolts and the nut get 8 lb-ft.

The other two holes are easily visible when you pull the carpet...there is a clear plastic sticker covering the holes that the sub box mounts to. I'll take some pics when I install it.

One more thing...that pic I posted of the back of a 500 earlier in the thread where I suspected the 500 had sub outs (Pins 18 and 19 on the 24 pin "J1" connector)...I was wrong. The sub outs will have to come out of the "J4" connector and they will be pins 5,6, and 8.

5: Rear Sub (+) (PK/LG)
6: Rear Sub (-) (OG/RD)
8: Rear sub amp turn on and clipping signal (GY/BK)

Aftermarket Stereo Hook up
Use a Metra adapter as if I was integrating into a factory shaker 1000 system (the little pigtail has RCA jacks that mate with the new head-unit) and voila! awesome sound...complete with fully operational Shaker 1000 amps & subs.

To fix the turn on pop:

A 5 Volt Fixed Voltage Regulator (Radio Shack #276-1770) did the trick. You carefully solder and heat shrink three wires onto the little beastie - there is a diagram on the back of the package. You have +12volt power and ground, and the third pin is 5 volt output. Solder and heat-shirink all connections, but the lowdown is the regulator's ground hooks up to the head unit's black ground wire and then you solder the Blue/White (or blue on some stereos) amp/accessory turn on wire that comes out of the headunit onto the regulator's 12V input, then solder the 5V output wire to your aftermarket adapter amp turn on wires (blue/white).

I also discovered that the Metra adapter harness with RCA plugs combines the shaker 1000 sub amp turn on wire and the front door woofer turn on wire.
Items needed to mount Aftermarkd double DIN radio and Shaker 1000 amps and subwoofer or aftermarket amp and subs

Metra Part # 70-5521
Description: Factory amplifier integration harness (Click on part for more details)
Product Specifications
• -Factory Amplifier Integration harness
• -2 RCA plugs to mate to aftermarket radio's pre-amp outputs
• -One 24-pin power plug and one 8-pin subwoofer plug
• -A 1.5K Ohm resistor can be used on the amp-remote wire to eliminate turn-on pop.
Allows installation of an aftermarket radio using the existing factory wiring and connectors. No cutting of factory wiring is needed.

If anyone has done this or knows someone have them contact me. Just in case they have an easier method of doing it.

Wow great writeup bro!!!!

thats alot

Nice work, but I would find a ground in the rear for the amps, shorter grounds work better.

I have the Shaker1000. I don't know if the amps are located in the kick panels or not (my '00 GT with Mach 460 had them there), but the four amps in the trunk are for the subs. I'm going to rip all my stuff out and replace it. If you need or would like the trunk amp rack, you can have mine as it will be of no use to me.

Hell yeah that would be great. but I would love to see the hook up arrangement before you tear it out.

Dude lose the shaker head unit, the head unit is junk, use your Eclipse head unit, any good premium head unit is far better then the shaker, the speaker system is great, but the head unit sucks, and I can help you install the it, I dont know about installing the shaker 1000 sub, but I do know about the head unit, I went with a Pioneer, just because I like Pioneer, but any good brand will do, and that Eclipse should work great, and I added a 760 watt sub in the trunk, and it blows away the old shaker

Cool might take you up on it. I am looking at the Pioneer Avic's actually. I will keep you posted.

Droptop306 wrote:Cool might take you up on it. I am looking at the Pioneer Avic's actually. I will keep you posted.

Oh Sweet

Agree!! I pulled my amps and subs out for weight reasons long ago and they're collecting dust in the attic. The head unit skips CDs mercilessly, despite firmware updates, so one day I'll replace it with some in dash Sirius/nav/CD player...

John

You'll love the satellite radio John, I've had it for years, and I'm keeping it.

Hey Boss my dad might be interested in buying your amps and subwoofer shoot me a pm with a price? He is on here with the pic of a yellow saleen dont know his screen name though.

I just got my shaker subs and ford amps and rack. I was wondering if any one in the club has them installed in there truck now so that I can see how they mount. If so please email or post pics of them in your trunk. Thanks

Here is info for the Shaker box and amp rack.
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=385&viewfile=Speaker%20Enclosure.pdf
Since you only had the Shaker 500, I doubt you would have the bolt already back there that the rear most part of the box attaches to, but there should be holes there for both the amp rack and the sub otherwise.

Alright got everything now. I also have all the wiring down. I will start making my wiring harness tomorrow. I will take pics and give a easier set of instructions. I have spoke to several people so far that has done this and is capable of working. I cant wait.

im another one interested in buying someone's sub/amp out of the shaker 1000...
lmk what you want for it

Just got done taking out ALL the amps/speakers and Shaker 1000 (Dynomat put inside several months ago) subs Sunday. I have no idea what they're worth, but PM if interested.

OK, I am going to start installing my new stereo setup. I just have a few questions. I am removing all factory amps. Now I am confused with wiring. What metra wiring harness do I use? Also once the amps on the drivers side fender are removed it leaves me with two plugs. Do i have to hard wire them together to make a complete circuit by splicing? This new technology sucks. Anyone that can walk me through this I would appreciate it. I have searched everywhere and they are all saying I need a $129. harness and still dont explain how I run three amps with only one amp plug on one of there harnesses. Thanks in advance

Droptop306 wrote:OK, I am going to start installing my new stereo setup. I just have a few questions. I am removing all factory amps. Now I am confused with wiring. What metra wiring harness do I use? Also once the amps on the drivers side fender are removed it leaves me with two plugs. Do i have to hard wire them together to make a complete circuit by splicing? This new technology sucks. Anyone that can walk me through this I would appreciate it. I have searched everywhere and they are all saying I need a $129. harness and still dont explain how I run three amps with only one amp plug on one of there harnesses. Thanks in advance

What? you should not be reusing much of the old harness what so ever. The new amps will need RCA cables from the headunit to them. then wirring up the speakers from there is all up to you. Take pics if you can of the connectors and of all ur new equipment. That can help better understand ur install

Droptop306 wrote:Alright got everything now. I also have all the wiring down. I will start making my wiring harness tomorrow. I will take pics and give a easier set of instructions. I have spoke to several people so far that has done this and is capable of working. I cant wait.

I wired in my 1000 subs to my 500 system. They have been there for a year and work great. If anyone needs any advice or wants to see mine they`re welcome to.

Yes I had the shaker 500 and 1000 subs. howerver just not enough of what I am looking for. I have removed all of that. I sold the shaker 1000 subs and amps already. I removed all door speakers and door amps. Now I want to start from scratch with a new nav system and all new door speakers and subs. If anyone is interested in buying my Pioneer Avic D3 in excellent condition shoot me an email. I have everything to include the ipod cable, remote, manuals, original box, and the mustang wiring harness to install with shaker 500. I am heading out to shed now to try this new Harness that Best buy said will work some turbo harness.

OK the new metra harness is the wrong pin adapter. I am so confused. Any one know the metra wire harness needed to install the navigation unit without the shaker 500's amp. thanks