anyone interested?

So.. the High flow catted H-pipe on my car is actually meant for a V8. Just found that out today... after 5 months of it on my car. Seeing that mine is a V6, my engine cannot heat up the cats to where they should be at, thus my engine overheats all the time.

So.. anyone interested in it?? I bought it for $285. So $100 OBO.

hmm the GF could use a H pipe on her GT

That makes no sense...but GL with the sale.

Yea i have no idea why that would cause the engine to overheat but w/e GL

thats what the shop told me. In order for the cats to function normally they need to be heated to a certain temperature and since my car is only a V6 the cats arent being heated properly. thus since its not heating up properly, all the heat stays in my engine.


...so i was going to get an off road h pipe. gut my cats and weld them over top of the pipe to give the appearance of having cats. and also the MIL eliminators.

Um dude, your shop is full of it. Cats do need to be at a certain temp to "light off" or do their job, but this has NOTHING to do with engine heat. Yes the heat of your exhaust is used to heat the cats, but just because the cats may not be getting hot enough (which i also might thing is BS) it's not keeping heat in your motor, in fact there is actually less backpressure in your exhaust meaning less heat. Your car is overheating for some other reason, and whatever dumbass told you it was because of your cats has no idea what he's talking about. What exact problem are you experiencing?

RTW0223 wrote:thats what the shop told me. In order for the cats to function normally they need to be heated to a certain temperature and since my car is only a V6 the cats arent being heated properly. thus since its not heating up properly, all the heat stays in my engine.


...so i was going to get an off road h pipe. gut my cats and weld them over top of the pipe to give the appearance of having cats. and also the MIL eliminators.

Sounds like some BS to me....

Your radiator, thermostat, water pump, and fan are for cooling the engine....not the exhaust. Your catalytic converters would have to be clogged, thus reducing your exhaust flow, to make the car run hotter. The fact that they are "for a v8" makes not one bit of damned difference. The converters dont magically suck the heat out of your engine when they warm up, and keep all of the heat in the engine if they stay colder than optimal. How is all of the heat staying in your engine because of this? Makes no damned sense....

well Im not sure the 'exact' problem I am having. all I know is that my check engine light is on and it is because of my driver's side cat which apparently went bad...

RTW0223 wrote:well Im not sure the 'exact' problem I am having. all I know is that my check engine light is on and it is because of my driver's side cat which apparently went bad...

If your driver's side cat went bad, then you would have reduced flow and diminished performance. All that would lead to a check engine light. I'd avoid that shop that you went to from now on. They DO NOT know what they are talking about. Get the code from your computer and see what is making the CEL light come on to pinpoint your problem....then fix it. If that h-pipe you have has a plugged up cat in it then you probably aren't going to be able to sell it. Either weld in a new cat, or just gut both of them and get a v-6 h-pipe to pass emmissions. There isn't anything inside the cat except for wire mesh and some honeycomb shaped ceramic stuff.

If he had a clogged cat the car would run like some $hit. You are probably throwing a cat efficiency code. Even with High flow cats this code will still pop up from time to time.

start your car, let it run for 10 minutes, touch the cat with your right hand....if it burns you then its hot enough ;P

funny guy. I'm just going to buy MIL eliminators to shut up the freakin codes. And then cut off the cats, gut them, run a straight pipe through them, clamp them back on.... giving the appearance of being legal but not really... plus more sound :p

Why not just gut the cats and forget the cut and weld part?

wouldnt there be more flow with straight pipes??

So you have a bad cat and you were trying to sell it?
WTF . . .

05RedDevil wrote:So you have a bad cat and you were trying to sell it?
WTF . . .

+1...BUSTED!!

well.. i was told it was just because it was for a V8 not a V6 but im not sellin it no more. ima try to fab it up

Dude the difference you will see from the straight pipe to the gutted cat is so minimal it's not worth the time/effort/money to do it. At that point you might as well buy an O/R pipe. Just gut the cats and forget about the 1 hp you will lose vs. the straight pipes.

so just cut the cats off. gut them. weld them or clamp them back on?

NO, don't cut anything, just gut them on the pipe. If it's at an angle just find a metal snake to crush the cats out.

well if i leave it on the pipe and crush the cats out, then all the crushed stuff will still be there making rattling noises...

RTW0223 wrote:well if i leave it on the pipe and crush the cats out, then all the crushed stuff will still be there making rattling noises...

Trust me dude, crush it up till ya hear PLINK! You got it out, shake the pipe if it rattles crush it up some more till it all comes out. Once you get majority of the cat out the exhaust will blow any little pieces left out.

Okay anywho... How can I pass emissions without cats?

RTW0223 wrote:Okay anywho... How can I pass emissions without cats?

if you have the mil eliminators it should not show a check engine light so when they scan your system it will show that nothing is wrong therefore you pass emissions

roushmustang427r wrote:

RTW0223 wrote:Okay anywho... How can I pass emissions without cats?

if you have the mil eliminators it should not show a check engine light so when they scan your system it will show that nothing is wrong therefore you pass emissions

word, i've passed MD emissions twice with no cats. MIL eliminators FTMFW