another day, another problem

so i started my intake swap... yesterday... and yesterday came to a halt when a bolt broke in half and i had to drill it out of the head and rethread it. so then after work today i continued working on it... got the lower intake on and all the fuel rails... put a hole in the old fuel rail hose so replaced that too, as well as some sensor on the lower intake... :/... anyways.. i got the upper intake on but the two long bolts... broke those in half so had to take off the upper intake again and rethread those holes.... so then i put everything back togehter.... everything is on except for 3 upper intake bolts and the fuel pressure regulator little red hose that connects to the upper intake... broke that too.... so i went to start the car just to see if it would start.... it started up a bit rough.... idled for about 2 seconds then died..... from when it started to died there was a noticeable knocking noise from the engine and my oil pressure gauge read below zero..... any solutions/thoughsts?????? btw... im home tomorrow from work if anyone wants to help me :/

Ummmm, Knocking and no oil pressur. Probly nothing too much to worry about considering it sputtered and died. But i may be able to help out tommorow evening. Hit me up 971 227 2987.

I would but my car is still on jacks in my garage

RTW0223 wrote:. any solutions/thoughsts??????

yeah 1 , don't put so much muscle into it as for the running issue, without all the proper bolts in place ang torqued to the proper spec, you most likely have a vaccum leak, install the other 3 bolts when you have them then torque to spec in sequence then retest

so i had to use some duct tape on the fuel pressure vaccuum line cause no one sells it anymore... put that on.. as well as one more bolt... the two long bolts that go through the middle dont fit.... and started the car... revs high at first almost 2k, then settles down to about 1.2k then back down to normal around 800... took it for a drive and it feels a bit funky... the accelerator sticks a bit tougher to prress down... and when im curising and take my foot off of it, the rpms stay where they were... usually theyll go down to zero esp when i have the clutch in and thats not the case now..

good to hear u got it going. If you had txted me i left my dam phone at home this morning. Was gonna see if you needed any help but dont look like it

i did text you lol cause my oil pressure gauge still doesnt move

another problem... great........ my clutch will not even go in at all... last time with this problem it was hard to push in... but now it wont go in at all.

Just get an appropriately sized vacuum hose from the parts store for the FRP, the red line is nothing special.

Did you torque all of the lower intake bolts in the proper sequence? That is a must-do, or the intake will have a poor seal and cause vacuum leaks, which cause erratic idle and poor performance. Do you have a shop manual for the car? Hayne, Chilton, etc? If not, go buy one!

If the oil pressure gauge is stock, then there is an electrical sending unit right above the oil filter. Make sure the wire is connected to it.

Did you pull the distributor to remove the old lower intake?

Did you check the voltage on the TPS?

Did you reconnect the electrical connectors for the various sensors that needed to be disconnected?

Did you check to see that the throttle cable had an unobndstructed path to the TB, and wasnt binding or twisted?

BCP wrote:

If the oil pressure gauge is stock, then there is an electrical sending unit right above the oil filter. Make sure the wire is connected to it.

Did you pull the distributor to remove the old lower intake?

x2 most likely dropped the hex shaft

Sticking BBK throttle body... who woulda thunk it...

Make sure you dont use a click style 1/2" torque wrench on those intake bolts, they are not head bolts so dont go crazy torquing them down.

BCP wrote:Just get an appripirately sized vacuum hose from the parts store for the FRP, the red line is nothing special.

Did you torque all of the lower intake bolts in the proper sequence? That is a must-do, or the intake will have a poor seal and cause vacuum leaks, which cause erratic idle and poor performance. Do you have a shop manual for the car? Hayne, Chilton, etc? If not, go buy one!

If the oil pressure gauge is stock, then there is an electrical sending unit right above the oil filter. Make sure the wire is connected to it.

Did you pull the distributor to remove the old lower intake?

Did you check the voltage on the TPS?

Did you reconnect the electrical connectors for the various sensors that needed to be disconnected?

Did you check to see that the throttle cable had an unobndstructed path to the TB, and wasnt binding or twisted?

no i did not pull the distributor

no i have not checked the tps yet, aaron told me it should be between .9 and 1 volts

yes i reconnected all wires

yes the throttle cable is unobstructed

^^^tps can be set anywhere from .8- 1.0 vdc....the .98 target people claim is a myth easily debunked if you understand the ecm logic/ ratch function/algorithm the ecm uses.