Power Draw Issues

Hey all,

Sorry I have been absent from MPSF for a while. :/ Been very busy with my senior design project. For those who aren't friends with me on Facebook, I am on the Hybrid Electric Vehicle Team of Virginia Tech. Basically we are converting a stock 2013 Chevy Malibu to a hybrid. Pretty cool stuff.

Anyways, I am having some, what i believe to be, some power draw issues. When the car turns on, the radio, power windows, and windshield wipers do not come on right away. They do, however, come on right away if the ignition is in accessory mode. Also, when those accessories do finally turn on, and I press the window buttons to lower them, the voltage meter of the battery shoots all the way down. And I can here the effect of that, as the RPM of the engine also decreases. Any ideas? i'm at a loss.

I would be looking at the ingnition switch mounted on the lower part of the column. Be willing to bet that's what it is.

I bet it is that damn flux capacitor. Gets me every time

I would check the draw at the battery, with acc, and with it running.

Then check it in the run position, without the engine running.

Then step your way back. Check at the ignition relay. Usually there is a ground issue at the ignition relay. Does the starter turn over fast?

The acc are a smaller subset of circuits that are active. With the engine reved, does the windows, wipers go faster?

Big-B wrote:I would be looking at the ingnition switch mounted on the lower part of the column. Be willing to bet that's what it is.

You talking about the part that the key inserts into?

TT_05_Stang wrote:I would check the draw at the battery, with acc, and with it running.

Then check it in the run position, without the engine running.

Then step your way back. Check at the ignition relay. Usually there is a ground issue at the ignition relay. Does the starter turn over fast?

The acc are a smaller subset of circuits that are active. With the engine reved, does the windows, wipers go faster?

Ill break out my dmm tomorrow and let you know

05RedDevil wrote:I bet it is that damn flux capacitor. Gets me every time

No No No Mike, your problem is you never actually come back down to 88 MPH, that's the problem.

TT_05_Stang wrote:I would check the draw at the battery, with acc, and with it running.

Then check it in the run position, without the engine running.

Then step your way back. Check at the ignition relay. Usually there is a ground issue at the ignition relay. Does the starter turn over fast?

The acc are a smaller subset of circuits that are active. With the engine reved, does the windows, wipers go faster?

Took the DMM to the battery just now..

Voltage of battery in accessory mode: 12.29
Voltage of battery with car running: 14.73
Voltage of battery with car in run position, not on: 11.98
Starter solenoid with car running: 14.76
Starter solenoid in accessory mode: 12.25
Starter solenoid with car in run position, not on: 11.95

When the problem first arose, the radio, windshield wipers, and windows would come on shortly after the car was turned on, but recently they will not come on at all now. So I can't say whether or not the windows roll up faster with the engine revved. Seeing as they all come on in accessory mode, I'll rule out a fuse. I should say though, the car will not start in very cold weather. To go somewhere I have to bump start it. But when its not really cold, the car will start right up.

RTW0223 wrote:

Big-B wrote:I would be looking at the ingnition switch mounted on the lower part of the column. Be willing to bet that's what it is.

You talking about the part that the key inserts into?

No, I'm talking about the electrical portion of the switch that's mounted on the lower part of the column. They are famous for going bad. When you turn your key, there is a rod that connects between the mechanical switch( the key) and the electrical part on the lower column. You have to remove the lower panel and find it on the column. Look closely at the connection and look for any burnt wires or pieces on the switch. Years ago, Ford had a recall on them for catching fire, due to a bad connection. They are also adjustable, so they have to be adjusted when installing the new one. It slides where it mounts, that's how it's adjusted. The switch moves in oposite directions when going from accesory to start/run. also, you say it won't start when it's very cold. When you have a connection issue, temp can play a big roll in causing a problem. Parts contract when they are cold, and expand when they heat up. When the contract, it could be just enough to break connection.
Also, one other thing to check when it doesn't start, the small tickle wire on the starter solenoid, check it. While in the crank position, take a test light and see if you have power on that single wire. If not, it comes directly from the ignition switch.

From my past experience, I still bet it's the ignition switch.

Big-B wrote:

RTW0223 wrote:

Big-B wrote:I would be looking at the ingnition switch mounted on the lower part of the column. Be willing to bet that's what it is.

You talking about the part that the key inserts into?

No, I'm talking about the electrical portion of the switch that's mounted on the lower part of the column. They are famous for going bad. When you turn your key, there is a rod that connects between the mechanical switch( the key) and the electrical part on the lower column. You have to remove the lower panel and find it on the column. Look closely at the connection and look for any burnt wires or pieces on the switch. Years ago, Ford had a recall on them for catching fire, due to a bad connection. They are also adjustable, so they have to be adjusted when installing the new one. It slides where it mounts, that's how it's adjusted. The switch moves in oposite directions when going from accesory to start/run. also, you say it won't start when it's very cold. When you have a connection issue, temp can play a big roll in causing a problem. Parts contract when they are cold, and expand when they heat up. When the contract, it could be just enough to break connection.
Also, one other thing to check when it doesn't start, the small tickle wire on the starter solenoid, check it. While in the crank position, take a test light and see if you have power on that single wire. If not, it comes directly from the ignition switch.

From my past experience, I still bet it's the ignition switch.

Yup!!! took the plastic off underneath the steering wheel and the ignition switch was just ziptied together. bought another one and everything works:) Thanks a lot!!

RTW0223 wrote:

Big-B wrote:

RTW0223 wrote:

Big-B wrote:I would be looking at the ingnition switch mounted on the lower part of the column. Be willing to bet that's what it is.

You talking about the part that the key inserts into?

No, I'm talking about the electrical portion of the switch that's mounted on the lower part of the column. They are famous for going bad. When you turn your key, there is a rod that connects between the mechanical switch( the key) and the electrical part on the lower column. You have to remove the lower panel and find it on the column. Look closely at the connection and look for any burnt wires or pieces on the switch. Years ago, Ford had a recall on them for catching fire, due to a bad connection. They are also adjustable, so they have to be adjusted when installing the new one. It slides where it mounts, that's how it's adjusted. The switch moves in oposite directions when going from accesory to start/run. also, you say it won't start when it's very cold. When you have a connection issue, temp can play a big roll in causing a problem. Parts contract when they are cold, and expand when they heat up. When the contract, it could be just enough to break connection.
Also, one other thing to check when it doesn't start, the small tickle wire on the starter solenoid, check it. While in the crank position, take a test light and see if you have power on that single wire. If not, it comes directly from the ignition switch.

From my past experience, I still bet it's the ignition switch.

Yup!!! took the plastic off underneath the steering wheel and the ignition switch was just ziptied together. bought another one and everything works:) Thanks a lot!!

Glad to hear it Ryan. Merry Christmas bro!

At first I was confused as to which car you were discussing. then realized that you were talking about the fox.

Glad you got that squared away!

yeah. now my driver door handle refuses to open my door -__- Hopefully its not too much longer until I get a job and can start building this dam thing!

Ryan, it is nature of the beast! good thing is that for the most part, parts are cheap and fairly easy to fix. keep your head up bro! you will get a great job once you graduate

Lone Star wrote:Ryan, it is nature of the beast! good thing is that for the most part, parts are cheap and fairly easy to fix. keep your head up bro! you will get a great job once you graduate

nature of the beast... love it! head is always up!!