Starting issues

Everytime I go to start my car in the morning, or after sitting for a couple days, it will take a couple clicks to start which is about normal, but after idling for about 3 seconds it will just die. I go to start it again and it doesnt die. So basically it takes me two turns of the key to start my car. Any ideas?

Can be a lot of different things... but since you have had vacuum leak issues, that is the first place I would start.

yeah, still unsure how to check them. Just found out the two bolts holding my steering rack on were very loose and two headers bolts on my passanger header are no longer there FML

RTW0223 wrote:yeah, still unsure how to check them. Just found out the two bolts holding my steering rack on were very loose and two headers bolts on my passanger header are no longer there FML

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-9432-A51/?rtype=10

Worth every penny

for finding vacuum leaks you can use any type of spray liquid that is somewhat flammable, yet evaporates quick, like starting fluid. Spray a little bit around the lines, or connections and listen for rpm changes in the engine.

yeah i have the stage 8's, its just i lost some of the snap on things :/

ahh sweet.

i should also mention that when i try to accelerate fast and bang through the gears, the car lags between every gear, and i have close to no torque in 5th gear

RTW0223 wrote:ahh sweet.

i should also mention that when i try to accelerate fast and bang through the gears, the car lags between every gear, and i have close to no torque in 5th gear

Ummm ur cars got probs dude.......We need a tech day for Ryans stang. We need her to run tip top for summer

yeah we do. i need to at least finish the rally...

run a koer/koeo test and verify no codes exist first ryan, smoke machine if you had access to one will find any and all vac leaks in a few seconds, much more accurate than spraying liquids around, smoke machine is what I use here

He should take the car to you:) Ryan take it to mjr46

yeah im taking the car to him soon, but for another reason and my fog machine is at school lol

well to go along with the fact that i need an alignment, i came around my street corner a bit fast and heard a strange sound from the front... put the car on jacks and found the the rack and pinion had moved out of place where the two bolts hold it against the chasis. so i tightened up those bolts so now it is flush... but now my steering column is touching the driver side long tube... this has never prevuously been the case... and while the car run... i can feel the longtubes shake through the steering wheel..



also, i had the car running in order to do some leak testing. i used wd40 and sprayed the connections from the heads to the lower intake and the lower intake to the upper. after spraying there seemed t be no apparent rpm changes, however it seemed as if the wd40 was "sucked" through the cracks.

if the rack is seated properly Ryan and the shaft is in the proper position on the splines to the rack and it still touches, one of two options, 1. dimple the header, 2. get a aftermarket shaft from a place like flamming river for tight clearance.....as for the testing for vaccum leaks, are you having a prob?? normally I smoke test for such = finds all leaks even the ones the carb cleaner can't get too......when you come next week if you want, I can't rent out the smoke machine from the service manager, he keeps it locked up but usually for 10 bucks I can borrow it

i was trying to dimple it a tad, but the area is tight to work with. any suggestions? and yeah, as far as i know, the rack and steering column are where they should be.
and yeah lets aim to do the smoke test. this engine needs to last at least 2 more years til it gets put in a better home... an actual garage

also, i was told this may be due to very old engine mounts. possible?

hmm now youre having that header/ steering shaft clearance issue i had when i installed mine. i bought another shaft from flaming river

yeah its weird, it used to never touch..hmmmmm

RTW0223 wrote:i was trying to dimple it a tad, but the area is tight to work with. any suggestions? and yeah, as far as i know, the rack and steering column are where they should be.
and yeah lets aim to do the smoke test. this engine needs to last at least 2 more years til it gets put in a better home... an actual garage

all right, I'll have it ready for saturday, so far looks good for this coming weekend, we'll have to do it early as in the afternoon I have a friend coming to my house to help me cut wood so pm me tuesday / wednesday but looks like possibley 7a.m start time

alright. I am going to try and run the koer test tomorrow and try to put a dimple in the one primary.

so i tried running the tests, but my check engine light does not work

RTW0223 wrote:so i tried running the tests, but my check engine light does not work

does it light up briefly when you turn the key to the on position???

no it doesnt light up at all

then pull the cluster and check the bulb, make sure all connectors are plugged into the cluster and while removing the cluster if the speedo cable isn't snapped into the back that may be the cause of the inoperative speedo, so pay close attention to that when removing

so i took my car to a shop just now just so they could inspect my rack and pinion and the guy said nothing was wrong with it that he could tell. and the noise i was hearing while taking sharp turns could be the exhaust connections from the h pipe to mufflers hitting the floor since when the car is on they vibrate and hit.

also i just asked how much an alignment is and he said an alignment wouldnt work since my car is lowered. hmmm?

and im gonna look for how to pull the cluster then get on that