idling issue and new tach

well here is a video of me trying to drive from a friends house to my boat...



as you can see it is having idling return issues. no that was not me myself stalling lol, had to pop the clutch cause car was coming! I tried installing a new IAC but same issue occurs so put original one on. Also, there is a loud whistle/screach coming from the engine bay, sounds like coming from intake. Mike and I were pretty thorough with vacuums while doing the rebuild so idk. Any ideas??

and i tried installing that new tach, however its not working. red wire to ignition wire. black to ground. white to lights. green to ignition coil. It lights up but does not read RPMs.

and also this can serve as a quick in-car sound clip

sounds like a vac leak. Hmmm I have a fog machine that can be used to find one

ok when can you come over lol

this weekend. Probly saturday

im free after 3 saturday

K

Check all wires and sensors for wire exposure (bare wires) or the touching of bare wires. Could be shorting out causing computer to get misread and shut down the motor. This happened to me on I-81 with my 95 gt. I discovered two wires going to senor plug were bare and touching. Had to do roadside rigging and electrical taped wires seperatley. Started right up. Immediately repaired the wires once I arrived home. No problem since. Hope this helps ya out

RTW0223 wrote: Also, there is a loud whistle/screach coming from the engine bay, sounds like coming from intake. Mike and I were pretty thorough with vacuums while doing the rebuild so idk. Any ideas??

Funny how a vacuum leak can sound like a screech. When I replaced my first 5.0L I thought a had a bad bearing or something. For me it was a vacuum line under the driver side of the upper plenum. It became disconnected during installation of the upper. It is hard to see under there. It might be useful to use a mirror. Heres a Picture

What TB do you have?

bbk edelbrock 70 mm TB

and i went out to spencers today and bought a fog machine so taht i can test for the vacuum leaks!

also..got my tach to work. the red wire was not gettting any voltage.

Known issue that bbk tb whistle bad...and their tps sensor gives bad readings. I used to have one...

i cant wait to put my tach in and i forgot to text you but he didnt have one anyways

tps is outputting .98 volts.

and its odd, because ive had this TB for about a year and never heard a whistle like this before.... ill be smoke testing the car tomorrow

RTW0223 wrote:tps is outputting .98 volts.

and its odd, because ive had this TB for about a year and never heard a whistle like this before.... ill be smoke testing the car tomorrow

different mass air, more camshaft, better flowing heads = more air intake / velocity into the air intake tract, sharp edges and or rough castings in the intake tract can also cause such as air flows over and or around such, when I had a bbk edelbrock on mine with the ported cobra intake, it was twice as loud as yours Ryan, I switched to an Acufab and rpm 2 intake and no more whistle

Also, Idk if this has anything to do with the way the 5.0 idles but when the IAC is disconected it was no effect on idle, Reconect same thing. I adjust the throttle stop to get it to idle slightly better. When first starting the motor will rev and shut down. Start again same thing. If you give it a lill throttle it will do one of two things. Idle hunt. From 500 to about 1200 rpm or stay at about 800 rpm and act like its missfiring. IE rough idle. Every now and then itll somewhat smooth out but go back to rough idle.

chrisverneuil wrote:Also, Idk if this has anything to do with the way the 5.0 idles but when the IAC is disconected it was no effect on idle, Reconect same thing. I adjust the throttle stop to get it to idle slightly better. When first starting the motor will rev and shut down. Start again same thing. If you give it a lill throttle it will do one of two things. Idle hunt. From 500 to about 1200 rpm or stay at about 800 rpm and act like its missfiring. IE rough idle. Every now and then itll somewhat smooth out but go back to rough idle.

this.

mjr46 wrote:

RTW0223 wrote:tps is outputting .98 volts.

and its odd, because ive had this TB for about a year and never heard a whistle like this before.... ill be smoke testing the car tomorrow

different mass air, more camshaft, better flowing heads = more air intake / velocity into the air intake tract, sharp edges and or rough castings in the intake tract can also cause such as air flows over and or around such, when I had a bbk edelbrock on mine with the ported cobra intake, it was twice as loud as yours Ryan, I switched to an Acufab and rpm 2 intake and no more whistle

this whistle that i am talking about was not prevalent at your shop. just started approx 2 days ago

then look for a vaccum leak, make sure when you installed the new BAP back by the vaccum tree that you didn't knock loose a line and or disturb the pcv system,

I looked at the vac tree, No lines where knocked loose. But did notice that the A/C line was still being used. Im trying to think of anything that could be causing this. With out a Diag computer im not sure what else other than smoke testing that it could be.

chrisverneuil wrote:I looked at the vac tree, No lines where knocked loose. But did notice that the A/C line was still being used. Im trying to think of anything that could be causing this. With out a Diag computer im not sure what else other than smoke testing that it could be.

if vac test reveals nothing, run a koeo/koer test, there are a few things I can think of outside of vac leaks that'll create idle surge apart form ignition system issues.

alright fog machine showed nothing, but also because the fog machine kept overheating and turning off...

Koeo results:
82
85
84

koer results:
13
94
44
33

cylinder balance
90

13 - RPM Not Within Self Test Upper Limit (R), Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly -generally idle too high

82 - Secondary Air Bypass Circuit Failure (O)
84 - EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) Control Circuit Failure (O)
85 - CANP Circuit Failure (O)
94 - Secondary Air Injection Inoperative. bank two, driver side (R), Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit Failure (O)

33 - EGR Valve Opening Not Detected (CM,R)

44 - Secondary Air System Inoperative. bank one, passenger side (R)

Egr valve stuff is probly from me disconnecting the two selnoids down behind shock tower. Canp is from removing the canister selnoid that was leaky. I set idle higher to prevent from the idle surgery and first start up. Ill try to get my foger to work. It puts out a good bit of smoke and probly wont over heat.

I'll grab my code book for all these and check back on this one... Some of the definetions you listed aren't for the older EECIV codes. I do know the RPM one was from not doing the throttle "goose" properly when promted. Also it is "slightly" possible the TPS voltage is a tad high. I know everybody says get as close to 1 Volt (even with the SVO's) as possible. But sometimes the computer doesn't like it. Because sometimes once snugged down it does actually mved it up. Especially with the changes you've done. Also have you done a sweep test with the TPS with a regular analog meter? It will show if there is any dead spots in it. Maybe I'll come too. Chris, you go right by me on the way to Bel Air, maybe you could swing by and pick me up. I need to get out and do stuff, and meet more of you guys.

etc1006 wrote:I'll grab my code book for all these and check back on this one... Some of the definetions you listed aren't for the older EECIV codes. I do know the RPM one was from not doing the throttle "goose" properly when promted. Also it is "slightly" possible the TPS voltage is a tad high. I know everybody says get as close to 1 Volt (even with the SVO's) as possible. But sometimes the computer doesn't like it. Because sometimes once snugged down it does actually mved it up. Especially with the changes you've done. Also have you done a sweep test with the TPS with a regular analog meter? It will show if there is any dead spots in it. Maybe I'll come too. Chris, you go right by me on the way to Bel Air, maybe you could swing by and pick me up. I need to get out and do stuff, and meet more of you guys.

Sounds good to me. Im planning on heading up tommorow and doin some more troubleshooting

yup ill be good after 3 tomorrw. all help asppreciated:)

and update:

i turned the IAC upside down, so the connector is on top, and now it wont die. the idle still is not as good as when we were at MIKE's shop. still horrible hesitation...

RTW0223 wrote:yup ill be good after 3 tomorrw. all help asppreciated:)

and update:

i turned the IAC upside down, so the connector is on top, and now it wont die. the idle still is not as good as when we were at MIKE's shop. still horrible hesitation...

DO THE base idle reset I sent you, and get your CAI set up for that maf with cold air calibration. and don't mess with any other settings..ie timing, any sensors ect ect...let me know how it goes Ryan