Starting issues

RTW0223 wrote:so i took my car to a shop just now just so they could inspect my rack and pinion and the guy said nothing was wrong with it that he could tell. and the noise i was hearing while taking sharp turns could be the exhaust connections from the h pipe to mufflers hitting the floor since when the car is on they vibrate and hit.

also i just asked how much an alignment is and he said an alignment wouldnt work since my car is lowered. hmmm?

and im gonna look for how to pull the cluster then get on that

What? Obviously this guy dosnt really know what hes talking about. You can align a lowered car. How the hell you think every lowered car out there drives in a straight line? Someone take his bussiness licsence away plz. You can align it. You may have to go to a few dif places depending if they can get ur car on the lift. As i dont think you have a aggresive lowering kit on anyplace that can align a "lowered" car will be able to do it

alright so i pulled out my cluster and go figure... no bulb. so i replaced the bulb as well as the low coolant bulb. then ran the tests.

after warming the car up i retrieved codes 22 and 41 and 91
22 - Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Sensor Out Of Self Test Range (O,CM,R)
41 - System Indicates Lean -passenger side(R), No o2 Sensor Switching Detected. always lean -passenger side(CM)
91 - o2 Sensor Circuit Indicates Lean -driver side(R), No o2 Sensor Switching Detected. always lean -driver side(CM), Shift Solenoid 1 Circuit Failure (O)

and then it passed the cylinder test


couldnt figure out how to diagnose the speedo

is the ground wire hooked up for the o2 sensors...the orange one at the back of the intake on the harness??

hmm.. I am not sure. Is it behind the upper intake?

and could it be due to the fact that i might not have reset my ecu since putting them in. Chris told me I should take off my neg terminal over night in order to reset it.

it should be behind the intake or attached to a stud there or on the heads in the back, check to make sure it is hooked up first

yes, the orange wire that comes out of the harness is grounded to a bolt on the back of the driver head

if both o2's infact are working, which to detect if they are you'd have to backprobe the signal wire with a multimeter and see if the voltage ranges between about .1 to 1.0 vdc, if it's fixed you can shoot some propane into the intake via a vaccum line and if it starts to go rich then you know they are working and can assume you have a lean condition either a result of a vaccum leak or weak fuel pump or restricted filter, when both banks are lean you have to look at components that affect the system as a whole such as vaccum leaks, fuel delivery issues ect ect.......but first what I'd do is clear the codes via disconnect the battery and then touch the neg a pos terminal together for a few minutes, that'll clear the KAM and or any capacitors that 'll keep memory function alive, after KAM is cleared rerun koer test, if the codes return = hard failure, then you can begin the troubleshooting for such codes

i will clear the codes and re run the koer test tomorrow

alright. i disconnected the battery completely and let it sit for about 10 minutes. then i touched the two terminals together for about 3 minutes then reconnected it all, let the car warm up for about 10 minutes, then ran the test. still outputs codes 22, 41,and 91.

you don't have any vaccum line running to the map/bap sensor mistakenly do you??

also Ryan, have you cleaned the maf lately?? a contaminated maf will underestimated air flow at certain speeds causing the maf transfer function to be skewed and thus the ecm interprets the vehicle is operating at a different altitude then previously learned as stored in the KAM, and hence Bap sensor code also skewed maf transfer functions can generate lean codes due to a dirty maf......issues assosiated with such problem can be manifest in the form but not soley related to slugishness, hesitations, lack of power, ect ect, moral of the story, clean the MAF with CRC MAF CLEANER

what is a bap/map ?

and can i get this cleaner at like advanced? cause it probably has never been cleaned.

yes you can get it at autozone or advance, and the BAP is barametric pressure sensor, on a SD car it is a manifold absolute pressure sensor and it is bolted on the firewall

here Ryan :
http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/content/prod_detail.aspx?PN=05110

is that the unit on the driver side firewall near the wiper motor that has like 4 inputs on it??

it's the black thing to the left of the vaccum tree..see it??

ahhhh the vert..... anyways, yes i see it the thing screwed into the middle of the firewall directly behind the intake. and thats the map. just make sure nothing funky is hooked up to it?

well on a maf equipped vehicle it is known as a BAP, but yes that is the location of it, on a SPEED DENSITY car it would have a vaccum line running to it

not sure if this has anything to do with the vacuum issue but while i was looking for the orange o2 ground wire i stumbled upon this wire not being connected to anything....

RTW0223 wrote:not sure if this has anything to do with the vacuum issue but while i was looking for the orange o2 ground wire i stumbled upon this wire not being connected to anything....

that's the vaccum line for the hvac, it allows you to switch to different modes such as vents, defrost ect ect, it'll create a small vaccum leak if vented to atmosphere, meaning left unconnected, but I see you're running a k&n filter, often the oil contaminates the maf or better said the oil from such lightly coats the small maf wires inside and dirt sticks to it skewing reading, as air passes across the wire it cools the wire, the rate at which it cools the wire, is in turn interpreted as how fast the air is moved across the sensor. This reading is represented as a voltage value and intepreted as such by the ecm and relayed to a transfer table, where calculations are done for proper inj pulse width. Cover the wire with dirt and thus the air passing across the sensor won't cool it enough and the ecm will think the cars incoming air is less than it actually requires, thus creating a lean condition at low speeds or at cruise, this is the short of it for easy understanding

hmmm no wonder the heat in my car comes out of only my defroster.....
does it hook up to the vacuum tree??

and so your saying to spray the MAF that k&n is pretty dirty too.

THAT would be why and look on the vaccum tree there is a spot labled A/C, it connects there for a vaccum source, as for the filter, a service kit is availible from k&n, after washing them and I blow them out with compressed air, then air dry, after air dry... lightly recoat with the oil from the service kit, the maf cleaner is used to clean the small wires inside the maf housing, do not touch them.... the pressure/ force from the can will blow / clean most the dirt off. until the small spiral wiring can be clearly seen

alrighty i will get up early to do this before work tomorrow! thanks! and ill update you tomorrow

after cleaning the maf clear KAM and rerun koer...good luck

Funny story, Last summer when I was at cruising week in oc my car started running like crap kept breaking up I thought I blew the motor, the next day I took off my intake and discovered a freakin tea bag in my maf sensor, after that I took off my stock intake and replaced it with the bbk cai.