Starting issues

yes the spout was out and then i put it back in once i tightened the distributor bolt.


also...
i noticed some antifreeze on the underside of the engine near the water pump. hope its not leaking :/ never checked in depth as it wasnt my main concern today

and i also cleaned up the 10 pin connectors... almost all of the males were closed and a lot of debris in there. opened them all up and closed the females a tad and fill them with dielectirc grease

i also noticed that the rubber underneath my passenger side motor mount has split in half..

alright so update:

put new cel bulb in and spits out same codes...

and i thought i returned the timing to 10 but it is idling higher than normal
... around 1000rpms... buttttt... when i turned the steering wheel while sitting in neutral the rpms go down to where they should be...

and also... fianlly bought a multimeter!

Set idle with Idle set screw on TB

Set timing at 12* when at idle. I prefer 14* - 16* if your running premium, and 160*-180* therm

Loading the engine will affect idle.

The bogging in 5th seems like either Lean, and or timing is retarded.

For the timing marks, put a breaker bar or large ratchet on the crank bolt. If you dont have a TDC checker piston stop, you can use a screw driver. Take #1 plug out. insert the screwdriver and CAREFULLY rotate the crank until you feel the the piston stop coming up. In no way should the screwdriver bind. so make sure it is thin. also dont go hog wold with turning the crank this is a delicate process.

once you feel the piston going down turn back a few degrees on the crank. That will give you your TDC. This should line up with one of the marks on your balancer. You can get an MSD balancer degree tape to put on it, but needs to be really clean, and I usually spray it with clear afterwards so that it doesnt come off.

for the bogging i also heard that with T-5's the fifth gear is overdrive.

engine should not feel like its "laying over" or bogging down. Gearing will mask the issue by allowing the engine rpm increase faster due to less load. As RPM increases Volumetric Efficiency increases = more power. Tip in throttle response issues are magnified as load is introduced to the engine.

this snow aint helpin much to the health of my car....

^^^^do what I do in the winter, leave the 5.0 sit until spring

yeah i mean while i am at school it just sits in the parking lot.

well i think i am going to let the 5.0 hibernate until the spring...

been looking into it and realized that for a pretty much stock 5.0L, my engine shakes a LOT and shakes my car... i mean thats cool and all.. scare away all those chevy boys, but i dont think it should be doing that for a stock car.... and that split bushing in the motor mount could explain it...

so i need to replace the motor mounts... but which ones should i get??? i have read that some of them raise the engine ever so slightly in order to compensate for modified exhaust aka longtubes, and we all know that my steering shaft hits mine, and Mike, you have felt the intense vibrations from inside the car....... so im going to let the 5.0 sit til spring break in the beginning of March and first things first will replace the motor mounts and hopefully in the process will raise the engine enough to clear the steering shaft... remember these are 19 year old mounts.... do i go poly or solid and what brand?? remember, I will need ones that lift the engine slgihty and dont be afraid to suggest ones that will make the car shake, if i wanted a smooth ride i wouldnt have bought a stang and while i replace those i will also replace the trans mount

and while the car is jacked up i will be replacing the water pump and all of those hoses....

so,... motor mounts, trans mount, water pump, gaskets and hoses and whatever else

gonna try and get a job at school to fund all these restos

Energy suspension

Very motor mounts lower the engine. Iirc all others are same height.

thermostat kit:
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-8592K/79-95-Mustang-50L-58L-Thermostat-Housing-Kit

water pump and gasket:
http://rsatestpony.dminsite.com/waterpump-v8-5+0l-1986-1993/p/WP32/

Motor mounts:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-4-1124R/

is there anything else i should be changing/replacing while i am doing the water pump?


anything I'm forgetting?

welp she's now sittin til march :/

as the time gets closer ill post up a list of parts i will be looking to buy to see if anyone has anything

Good Choice, mines been sitting in the garage now for about a month and will continue to until spring or whenever the salt decides to leave the road.

Do what I did, make your secondary vehicle fun to drive haha, get a sub and an amp

my secondary vehicle, aka my bmx bike, was stolen

RTW0223 wrote:my secondary vehicle, aka my bmx bike, was stolen

awww damn, people these days..

i know (

UPDATE:

my father surprisingly took my car to the shop the other day, without me knowing, to have it checked out. I was like cool maybe ill find out whats wrong with it lol. So i get a call back now, and apparently the air intake is leaking, the water pump is leaking, and the o2 sensors are not working. THe manager also said he does not want to work on it anymore because "it has too many aftermarket parts on it". Thats bullshit: so an aftermarket air intake, TB, and exhaust is too much to work with? What a shop.... He also said it wouldnt be worth my time or money to fix it... And here is where i come to you guys! Ive already PM'd some guys, but figured id get a general opinion!

RTW0223 wrote:UPDATE:

my father surprisingly took my car to the shop the other day, without me knowing, to have it checked out. I was like cool maybe ill find out whats wrong with it lol. So i get a call back now, and apparently the air intake is leaking, the water pump is leaking, and the o2 sensors are not working. THe manager also said he does not want to work on it anymore because "it has too many aftermarket parts on it". Thats bullshit: so an aftermarket air intake, TB, and exhaust is too much to work with? What a shop.... He also said it wouldnt be worth my time or money to fix it... And here is where i come to you guys! Ive already PM'd some guys, but figured id get a general opinion!

from a shops perspective they don't want to work on it cause it's not gravy work for them = something they can kick out the door quick......you know where I stand on it Ryan...just let me know

You know I can fix it.

take it to Bob!

That shop is rediculous. The thing about a couple aftermarket parts is lame and the fact they said its not worth fixing makes them look stupid considering it's not gonna be too expensive to fix it versus buying something new... it's not like you totaled the car.

exactly

Ive mentioned BOB a few times. MAHAHAHAHAH we will get it fixed. Ed we got the torch ready for you:)