Starting issues

kev91gt wrote:Funny story, Last summer when I was at cruising week in oc my car started running like crap kept breaking up I thought I blew the motor, the next day I took off my intake and discovered a freakin tea bag in my maf sensor, after that I took off my stock intake and replaced it with the bbk cai.

that's better then a tea bag on the chin

Yea my car got tea bagged lol

hahaha thats something you dont say too often!

didnt get to maf today.. had dr. appt :/ lol but i did manage to attach the hvac hose to the tree but it still didnt solve the malfunctioning heat inside the car.... most likely a blower problem.

will be doing the maf tomorrow morning.

you'd have to trace the vaccum line, just because it is hooked back up out under the hood doesn't mean the line isn't broke or disconnected where it goes into the car, trace that line through the firewall to under the dash, iirc you said you had the dash out, you may have knocked loose a vac line or two

so i have been researching for a little while and talking to some people. i have had a lot of people tell me that the reason my car is running lean is because of my larger intake and the fact that i'm inputting so much more air but not the same amount of fuel, so my air/fuel ratio is messed up. I was told i would either need to get a tune or upgrade my maf and injectors. waht are your thoughts?

ya that could be it. The stock fuel maps probly arnt enough to supply that much air. MSII that bitch. Tune it urself. Its cheap than gettin a chip

damn, i really need to buy a multimeter :/ maybe my MAP sensor has gone bad. i have a feeling i need to fix this 'car running lean' problem because it grows into a much larger problem.

Ryan , I've worked on and run plenty of set ups with just an intake mod and never had any such issue, having a larger intake won't make it run lean all that does is remove any restriction, your valve events and heads are all still stock, you have not improved efficiency enough to where just an intake would cause you to run lean, my 89 before I redid the combo had a full h/c/i and run on 19 lb inj and no lean codes.....you don't need a tune, I can't tell you how many h/c/i 5.0's I've worked on that run off the stock ecm's and fuel maps with just a calibrated maf and inj's, I now run a pro-m maf with 24's, one of my customers has a 94 with tfs h/c/i run on 19's just fine........did you clean the maf , reset KAM and rerun koer yet??.........as for tommorrow and testing other stuff outside the current install deal.....it'll all depend on time left over, I have a friend meeting me at my house at 1 pm to cut wood so I have to leave the shop by noon, so we'll have to play it by ear. 7.am sharp tomorrow start time

alright. i was just gathering other people's opinions and then presenting them to mpsf ill be there! leaving no later than 530! see you soon!

so were you able to do the maf stuff??

just got back from advanced with the crc cleaner now. about to do it...

cool let me know how it goes, i'm getting a fire going right now so i'll be back and forth

alright cleaned the maf. put everything back in. and while the crc was drying i reset the kam. still outputting the same codes.

we'll talk about it in the morning as I take care of the install. see you then

alrighty. and i just found out that the airbag light blinks in a manner like a koeo code.. my light blinks a 32.
32 | High resistance or open circuit in driver air bag circuit

hmmm?

could be a clock spring, I'd have to look at the troubleshooting instructions for the code and see what area it directs you too .

yeah i saw one guy post... " When you lose horn, cruise and have a airbag light, is is usually the clockspring." in which i have lost all of those as well

if the steering shaft has ever been off and the steering wheel was allowed to spin in numerous cycles it could of torn the coiled tape string of wiring inside the clock spring which is where all the functions pass through, high resistance code often is another way of putting "open circuit" = often times I find a broken wire in this case it'd be internal in the clock spring

oh one more thing, they are calling for some light snow overnight, according to news 4 ...1-2 inch max in the area to possible dusting, shouldn't be of any concern.

so i'd need to replace the clockspring?

enough of this god damn snow already. wheres the 80 degree weather at??????

if that's what's wrong, then yes.....enough of the snow?? I haven't had to plow yet this year, I want a storm that'll generate plow dough for me

well ill worry about the horn and all that jazz at a later time as they are not causing my car to run poorly and i am a summer guy who hates all cold and snow

all right, I'm outta here, see you in the morning

see ya!

alright so after chris and I did a little diagnostics of my car.... none of which proved successfull.....

he tried backprobing the o2 sensors at the ecu to try and get a .5 volt output but got nothing....although i do know that i have no middle o2 sensors (at the middle of the car.. only ones at the headers) the previous owner i guess cut them off or something? i never looked into that area because it looks like a giant cluster of greasy electrical tape...maybe this could cause an opening in the circuit?

and we found a broken hose... not sure of its relevance though...



also, we noticed that my coolant was about only half full in the radiator... hmmm

and we tested the BAP. the input signal is where it should be... about 5 vdc. but the output is only around 87 Hz. hmmm

oh, and my check engine light is no longer on, but when i run the koeo test, it doesnt blink... so it most likely burnt out... wtf